Mattia Scarbolo and his sister Lara are simultaneously rediscovering truths and values from the past, whilst racing headlong into the future. ‘Areore’ their field blend (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Tocai Fruilano) is a stunningly exciting wine. The label is great, it’s hugely but not frighteningly unusual, it ‘looks’ natural but there’s ‘zero funk’, overall a beautifully made wine. Areore pulls off the clever trick of feeling very serious, very classy and quite grown up, something you’re immediately comfortable with, whilst at the same time being provactively different. The Chardonnay provides the bass, the Sauvignon gives the lift you’d perhaps expect, even though it’s in quite heavy disguise, and the Tocai? Well, it scribes the most wonderful dashes and flourishes across the surface (some of the fruit was botrytised this vintage) and the three weave together into what becomes a fairly special glassful.